Published on Fri Mar 01 2024 21:51:13 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) by Alex
Solidoodle 2: A Deep Dive into a Classic 3D Printer
The Solidoodle 2, released in the early days of desktop 3D printing, occupies a unique space in the history of the technology. It was designed to be an affordable entry point, bringing 3D printing to hobbyists, educators, and small businesses without breaking the bank. While time has moved on and advancements have been made, the Solidoodle 2 still holds a certain charm and relevance, especially for those interested in tinkering, learning the fundamentals, or simply dipping their toes into the world of additive manufacturing.
Let’s take a comprehensive look at what the Solidoodle 2 offered, how to get the most out of it, and why it’s still worth considering today.
Solidoodle 2: Specifications
- Technology: Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)
- Build Volume: Approximately 6 x 6 x 6 inches (152 x 152 x 152 mm) - While some sources may vary slightly, this is the general consensus.
- Layer Resolution: Down to 0.1mm (100 microns) - in practice, achieving this consistently could be challenging.
- Filament Diameter: 1.75mm
- Supported Materials: Primarily PLA, with limited ABS capability. Achieving consistent ABS prints required significant modifications and experimentation.
- Frame: Steel
- Heated Bed: Yes. This was crucial for attempting ABS and achieving better PLA adhesion.
- Print Speed: Varies depending on material and settings, but typically in the 40-80mm/s range for PLA.
- Connectivity: USB
- Software: Compatible with open-source slicers like Repetier-Host, Cura, and Simplify3D.
- Dimensions: Approximately 13 x 12 x 12 inches (330 x 305 x 305 mm) - a rough estimate.
- Power Supply: External power brick.
Usage Tips and Tricks for the Solidoodle 2
The Solidoodle 2, being an early generation machine, often required some finesse to get the best results. Here’s a compilation of tips and tricks:
-
Bed Leveling is Key: The single most important factor for successful prints. The Solidoodle 2 typically used a 3-point leveling system. Invest time in learning how to properly level the bed using the adjustment screws. Use the paper method: the nozzle should gently scratch the paper at each of the three points. Repeat this process several times, as adjusting one point will affect the others.
-
Bed Adhesion:
- PLA: Blue painter’s tape was a common and effective surface for PLA. Clean the tape with isopropyl alcohol before each print for better adhesion.
- ABS: ABS required a heated bed and an enclosed environment to reduce warping. Using ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in acetone) on a heated bed was a common practice, although potentially hazardous (work in a well-ventilated area!). Consider using a raft to improve bed adhesion.
-
Temperature Control:
- PLA: Experiment with nozzle temperatures between 190-220°C and bed temperatures between 50-60°C.
- ABS: Nozzle temperatures around 230-240°C and bed temperatures around 100-110°C were typical starting points.
-
Print Speed: Slower print speeds generally resulted in higher quality prints, especially for intricate details. Start with speeds around 40-50mm/s and adjust from there.
-
Cooling: PLA benefited from active cooling. If your Solidoodle 2 didn’t have a part cooling fan, consider adding one. ABS, on the other hand, needed to be printed without cooling to prevent warping.
-
Firmware and Software: The Solidoodle 2 was typically compatible with open-source firmware like Marlin. Upgrading the firmware could unlock new features and improve performance. Experiment with different slicing software to find the settings that work best for your machine. Cura, Repetier-Host, and Simplify3D were all popular choices.
-
Maintenance:
- Regularly clean the nozzle with a brass brush to remove any accumulated filament.
- Lubricate the lead screws with a light oil or grease.
- Check the belts and pulleys for tightness and wear.
- Calibrate the extruder E-steps to ensure accurate filament extrusion.
-
Enclosure: Building an enclosure around the Solidoodle 2 was highly recommended, especially when printing ABS. An enclosure helped to maintain a consistent temperature and prevent drafts, reducing warping and improving print quality.
-
Troubleshooting:
- Warping: The most common issue, especially with ABS. Ensure a high bed temperature, use an enclosure, and try a raft.
- Poor Layer Adhesion: Increase the nozzle temperature, slow down the print speed, and ensure proper bed leveling.
- Nozzle Clogging: Clean the nozzle, adjust the temperature, and check the filament for moisture.
-
Community Support: Online forums and communities dedicated to 3D printing are invaluable resources for troubleshooting and finding solutions to common problems. Search for “Solidoodle 2” specific groups or forums.
Rating the Solidoodle 2
Here’s a rating of the Solidoodle 2 across various key categories, based on its performance relative to the standards of its time (and even somewhat compared to today’s standards):
- Print Quality: 6/10 - Could produce decent prints with careful calibration, but prone to imperfections and inconsistencies compared to modern printers.
- Build Volume: 5/10 - Limited compared to many other printers, even those from the same era.
- Printing Speed: 5/10 - Generally slower than more modern machines.
- Material Compatibility: 4/10 - Primarily designed for PLA, with challenging ABS performance.
- Bed Adhesion & Leveling: 5/10 - Required constant attention and manual adjustment. Achieving consistent adhesion was a challenge.
- Reliability: 6/10 - Prone to issues and required frequent maintenance.
- Ease of Use: 4/10 - Steep learning curve, especially for beginners.
- Firmware and Software: 6/10 - Relied on open-source software, which offered flexibility but also required technical knowledge.
- Connectivity Options: 2/10 - Limited to USB, which could be inconvenient.
- Build Quality & Durability: 7/10 - The steel frame was robust, but other components were less durable.
- Noise Level: 6/10 - Moderately noisy during operation.
- Maintenance Requirements: 3/10 - High maintenance due to its design and construction.
- Customer Support: 2/10 - Solidoodle is now defunct, so customer support is non-existent. Rely on community resources.
- Upgradeability: 7/10 - The open-source nature allowed for various modifications and upgrades.
- Price to Performance Ratio: 7/10 - At its original price point, it offered a relatively affordable entry into 3D printing. On the used market, the value proposition depends on the condition and price.
Average Score: 5.07/10
Conclusion:
The Solidoodle 2, while a product of its time, occupies an important niche in the history of 3D printing. It’s a capable machine for those who are willing to put in the time and effort to learn its quirks. For someone looking for a simple, reliable 3D printer with minimal fuss, more modern options would be a better choice. However, for someone interested in understanding the core mechanics of 3D printing, tinkering with hardware and software, and embracing a challenge, the Solidoodle 2 can be a rewarding experience. Just be aware of its limitations and be prepared to invest time in maintenance and troubleshooting. And remember to utilize the wealth of community knowledge available online.
Written by Alex
← Back to blog